Review 20th Anniversary Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396

The Patek Philippe 5396 Annual Calendar is certainly one of Patek’s more elegant pieces, with a minimalistic layout reminiscent of their perpetual calendar models of the last century. With two apertures at 12 o’clock stating the day and the month, a 6 o’clock aperture that tells the date and a subsidiary dial that serves as a day/night indicator and moon phase, the amount of information conveyed in what looks to be a relatively simple dial layout is impressive.

The 5396 has been around for a while now, but the updates this year came in the form of two new designs. Available in rose and white gold, the dial now features applied gold Breguet numerals on a dotted minute track and dauphine hands on a silvery white opaline dial and sunburst brushed dark grey dial. 38.5mm, it is a modern presence on the wrist but not sized too largely, maintaining its understated appeal. The case features long straight lugs that taper, a polished finish throughout and correctors on either side of the crown to easily set the date at the end of February www.captainthewatch.is.

Patek Philippe 5396 is powered by the Swiss Patented Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, which is a self-winding movement with a silicon hairspring. The use of silicon in the hairspring is a sign of Patek Philippe’s attempt to remain forward thinking, as a result of their ‘advanced research’ program. The Spiromax balance is made of a derivative of silicon, Silinvar, which is an extremely hard, light and antimagnetic material which also reduces the need for lubrication. It has a power reserve of 35-45 hours and as specified by the Patek Philippe Seal, rate deviations must range within -3 and +2 seconds per day.