Review 20th Anniversary Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396

The Patek Philippe 5396 Annual Calendar is certainly one of Patek’s more elegant pieces, with a minimalistic layout reminiscent of their perpetual calendar models of the last century. With two apertures at 12 o’clock stating the day and the month, a 6 o’clock aperture that tells the date and a subsidiary dial that serves as a day/night indicator and moon phase, the amount of information conveyed in what looks to be a relatively simple dial layout is impressive.

The 5396 has been around for a while now, but the updates this year came in the form of two new designs. Available in rose and white gold, the dial now features applied gold Breguet numerals on a dotted minute track and dauphine hands on a silvery white opaline dial and sunburst brushed dark grey dial. 38.5mm, it is a modern presence on the wrist but not sized too largely, maintaining its understated appeal. The case features long straight lugs that taper, a polished finish throughout and correctors on either side of the crown to easily set the date at the end of February www.captainthewatch.is.

Patek Philippe 5396 is powered by the Swiss Patented Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, which is a self-winding movement with a silicon hairspring. The use of silicon in the hairspring is a sign of Patek Philippe’s attempt to remain forward thinking, as a result of their ‘advanced research’ program. The Spiromax balance is made of a derivative of silicon, Silinvar, which is an extremely hard, light and antimagnetic material which also reduces the need for lubrication. It has a power reserve of 35-45 hours and as specified by the Patek Philippe Seal, rate deviations must range within -3 and +2 seconds per day.

New Yellow Gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15450 Watch Review

This watch is in yellow gold, as all of this year’s Royal Oak collection in precious metals have been so. They’ve pushed very hard this year to bring the metal back, turning away from the more marketable and seemingly preferred rose gold. For a while now, many people have turned their noses up at yellow gold for being too old-fashioned, so for Audemars Piguet to try to bring it back, is no easy feat. Next, this time only 15450, is sized at 37mm, 2mm smaller than the classic 15250 and a whole 4mm smaller than the more common 15400! More replica Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet 15450 features a familiar blue grande tappiserie dial, which is one of my favourites from the manufacture. The ability for the dial to reflect off different gradients of blue based on different light sources is a joy to look at and it is further emphasised by the warmth of the gold case. The yellow gold applied markers and baton hands are classically in the style of the Royal Oak and filled with luminous material.

The case is expectedly excellent, and at 9.8mm thick, it is surprisingly elegant for a sports watch. Similarly, the Genta designed bracelet of the Royal Oak is second to none, with a combination of brushed surfaces and polished bevels, it really showcases the excellence of the manufacture. While the AP folding clasp is easy to use and the bracelet is extremely comfortable, the weight of the watch, as it is solid gold, is something to get used to.

Powered by the in-house self-winding Calibre 3120, it is the same found in other time only Royal Oaks and is a fantastic movement, considered one of the finest automatic movements around. Featuring a bidirectional 22k rotor expertly engraved with the coat of arms for the Audemars and Piguet families, it is finished in true haute horlogerie standards with all edges and screw heads bevelled and polished and Côtes de Genève on the bridges. It has a power reserve of 60 hours.